Sights
Khiva. Uzbekistan
Ak Mosque
Khiva - The City Museum
Probably, Khiva is the most peculiar Uzbek city. Its history is inextricably connected with the history of the legendary Khorezmshah’s State with its capital in Urgench before. Khiva is a very ancient city.
In the 10th century Khiva is mentioned as a major trading center on the Silk Road. All the caravans had a stop here on their way to China and back. From dawn to dusk, until the gates were opened, an endless stream of moving string of camels with baggage passed them.
At the beginning of the 16th century Khorezm State became home for Uzbek nomadic tribes, who founded Khive Khanate here. However, Khiva did not become immediately the Khanate’s capital. It happened only after Urgench, an existing capital, had been destroyed due to the change of Amu Darya’s channel. In 1598 Khiva became the main city of the state.
In the 19th century Russia annexed part of Khiva Khanate. One century later, in 1919, the last Khan was liquidated of the ruling dynasty. So Khiva became the capital of the new Khorezm Soviet People's Republic. In 1924 territories of Khorezm oasis became a part of modern Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.
Khiva is one of the most beautiful cities of Uzbekistan. Over a period of its existence the city did not change much, which fact adds even more fascination to it. Among the numerous monuments of the city the buildings located in the territory of Ichan-kala (inner town) are especially prominent. There located palaces of the rulers from the Sheybanids and Kungrat dynasties as well as numerous madrasahs and mosques.
The mosques in the East were places to administer divine services and prayers. The word “mosque” itself originates from Arabian “maszhid”. The majority of the mosques in the East represent a one-storey building with a patio. Opposite a mosque doorway there was a hall for prayers and in one of the corners of it there overlooked a minaret from which a muezzin announced the beginning of prayers. The walls in the prayer hall were inscribed with verses from the Qoran. The wall which faced Mecca had an empty ambry – mikhrab where the imam was praying. To the right from mikhrab there wass a stand – minbar from which a preacher imam read sermons to the believers during a Friday prayer.
Unlike the standard mosques Ak-Maszhid in Khiva has an original architecture. This quarter mosque to administer a daily prayer five times a day is located near the eastern Palvan-Darvoza gates. Ak-Maszhid was built in several stages. In 1647 under Seybanid Anush-khan the mosque foundation together with the Anush bath-house was established, but it was not earlier than1838-42 under the Kungrat dynasty regiment when the building itself was completed. This fact is certified by an inscription on the mosque door which also reads that the wood engraving was made by Khiva Masters Kalandar and Nur Mukhammad.
The building represents a domed hall to which three galleries adjoin. Since Ak-Maszhid is a quarter mosque for daily prayers, it was built and decorated without special ornamental excessiveness. The only decoration of the mosque is possibly doors and windows decorated with a first-rate wood engraving. The windows of Ak-Maszhid are decorated with ganj grids representing a polyfoil. The south wall of the mosque where a mikhrab is located oriented the believers to Mecca.
The square foundation of the mosque is covered with a white hemispherical dome. The hall for praying itself is 6.33x6.35m. The walls of the praying hall are covered with ganj plasterwork of white color. From three sides of the hall there are aivans with wooden columns.
Ak-Maszhid in spite of its small size is one of the most beautiful monuments of medieval Khiva. Its simple but at the same time elaborated architecture distinguishes it in an advantageous way from other monuments of Ichan Kala.
Arab Muhammad-khan Madrasah
The Arab Muhammad-khan Madrasah in Khiva is one of the oldest madrasahs among the other architectural sites of Khiva. It is situated in the very heart of Ichan-Kala next to another madrasah of Muhammad Aminkhan, not less famous but built later. The madrasah was built by order of the Khorezm ruler shaybanid Arab-Muhammadhan in honor of the country’s capital which was moved from Urgench to Khiva.
Arab Muhammad-khan, after whom the madrasah got its name was a best-known person in the Khorezm history. He ruled from 1603 to 1621. During this period he achieved considerable successes ruling the state. It was his order by which Khiva became the capital of the Khorezm State. Under him, Khiva became one of the most beautiful cities of Central Asia rival to Bukhara and Samarkand in its beauty. He arranged several kinds of work connected with the development of the city. He ordered to build
several madrasahs, mosques and civil facilities, a small part of which survived till our days.
In 1616 in honor of this important event Arab-Muhammad ordered to build a madrasah for the city’s residents. Initially in the place of the present building there was another small madrasah built by a well-known female from Khiva. Arab-Muhammad bought out this building together with adjacent lands from her.
The madrasah represented a one-storey brick building of rectangular shape. The entrance portal had a traditional inscription from the Koran carved on it. Small minarets were located in the corners of the building. There are khudjrs for students to live in as well as a mosque to pray in the madrasah. Study rooms are situated next to the mosque.
The madrasah was re-built and renovated several times. In 1838 due to the building decay, the Khorezm ruler Allakulikhan ordered to re-build the madrasah to the standards common to late Khorezm architecture.
A second level was added to it. The number of khudjr and class rooms increased. The portal of the building was altered in part. It is this very state of the madrasah which remains till our days. Nowadays the madrasah is one of the favorite places visited by tourists from all over the world.
Allakuli Khan Madrasah
Madrassah of Allakuli Khan was built in the middle of the XIX century. It is considered the richest monument in its decoration. Majolica of Khorezmian type in black, white and blue colors prevails here, images in black contours is in the tambourines and framed double arcade of columns and three-quarters of the portal.
Madrasah has a name of an initiator of its construction, the Khiva ruler Allakuli Khan. In several khujdras on the first floor there was the city library founded by Allakuli Khan. The library provide books for all students of Khiva Madrasah.
Dishan-kala hospital
At the beginning of the twentieth century a hospital was built in Dishan-kala. Its construction was evidence of the new care for the people's health taken by the Khiva Khan. Whereas previously, the people saw only ta-bibs, here professional doctors treated the sick.
The hospital stretched for many blocks along the Ichan-kala, A famous artist of Khorezm, Abdulla Baltayev, took part in building and decorating it. A majolica ribbon bears the inscription: The Hospital of Cesarevich Alexey. It shows that the Khiva Khanate maintained some friendly relations with Russia in the early twentieth century. The architecture of the hospital is eclectic and reflects the elements of European and local architecture.
Djuma Mosque
There is a Djuma (Friday) mosque in the center of Ichan-kala. It was erected at the end of the eighteenth century over the ruins of previous construction. This is an original building without portals and cupolas, without galleries and yards. It is 55x46 m. One can enter the mosque from four sides. From the northern facade, facing the one of the main streets of the city the mosque faces a minaret, 52 m. high.
The building is fenced with brick walls. The interior space is a single hall, the flat ceiling of which is supported by 215 wooden pillars. This type of single-hall mosque is found throughout the world and throughout the ages; witness the magnificent mosque in Afrasiab (tenth century), an Iranian mosque in Plain (tenth century), the Morocco mosque of Khas-an in Rabat (twelfth century) and others. But the constructive plan and decor of the Khiva Djuma mosque express originally. Small openings were made in the ceiling for light and ventilation of the hall.
The finish of fagade is open brick. The interior is simply plastered. Spaces between the windows are painted in black and red colors; trees, bushes, and irises are realistically represented, symbolizing the wish of peace and tranquil in the monumental and decorative art of Central Asia. Irises were also used in the painting of the Ferghana mosques, in the Mamangan Khodja Amin Kabri, and other memorials. The carved doors and mosque pillars are of special interest. They were built in different periods.
The deep and raised carving with a Kufi inscription decorate the boles of the pillars of the tenth — eleventh centuries. Flatter ornament and smaller painting with flourishing Kufi are seen on the pillars of the eleventh — twelfth centuries. The text on them reminds the worshippers that «this possession belongs to Allah». The combination of geometric and plant ornaments and Arabic script is peculiar to the pillars of the fifteenth century. The majority of the pillars were erected in the eighteenth century and some of them are of late origin. One can read these dates on the doors and pillars: 1316, 1510, 1788, 1 789, probably, showing the stages of building the mosque.
The forest of pillars standing in the semi-darkness of the hall, adorned with the best patterns of Khorezm carving is expressive of the inimitable art of the local masters.
Islam Khoja complex
This almost a modern complex dates back to the beginning of the XX century. It includes a minaret and a mosque. The complex is called in honour of Islam Khoja, Prime Minister of Isfandiar Khan. Islam Khoja minaret called the symbol of Khiva.
It is narrowed upwards, which dates back to the earliest examples of the architecture of the XIV century. The brickwork alternates with bands of glazed patterns on the minaret. The height of the minaret 56.6 meters, diameter of the fundament is 9.5 at the base.
Islam Khoja Madrasah is located behind the minaret. It consists of 42 hujras and a large domed hall. Skills of builders are shown in contrast combinations of architectural forms that skillfully used in a limited space. Mihrab niche is decorated with majolica and ganch. The facade is decorated with glaze.
Islam Khoja minaret, built near the madrasah is the highest structure in Khiva, and has become its symbol.
The minaret is 44 m. high; the diameter on the foundation is about 10 m. The shaft of the minaret diminishes in its diameter as it rises, and produces an unusual impression.
Decorative belts of blue and white ceramics alternating with ochre bricks adorn the minaret. It is topped by arched lantern and golden crown.
The minaret dominates its part of the city and concentrates around it thousand of domes and vaulted constructions. The different sizes of the buildings as they approach the minaret of Islam Khoja contrast with its mass, showing off the skill of town planning of the Khorezm architects.
Itchan-Kala
What is Itchan-Kala? In ancient Khiva, as well as other eastern cities, was divided into three parts: the fortress - Kunya-Ark, suburb - Dishan-Kala and the city - Itchan-Kala.
Today Itchan-Kala (Ichan Kala) is open-air museum. It is the old part of the city, surrounded with wall and turned into the State Historical Archaeological Museum. Here on the vast territory of 26 hectares the exotic image of the eastern city has been preserved. But the most striking is that Itchan-Kala is not a frozen museum city. It is a home for 300 families, mostly engaged in crafts.
The clay wall (more than 2 km long, up to 10 m and 5-6 m at thickness) that surrounds the city of Itchan-Kala, has four gates - on each corner of the earth. Western Gate - Ata Darwaza. Gate Bagci leads to Urgench, the former capital of Khorezm, Gate Palvan open the way to the Amu Darya and then in an easterly direction, and the gate "Tash" - in a southerly direction.
In Itchan-Kala there are about 60 historic buildings. Here one can see such unique monuments of history, as the citadel complex Kunya-Ark, the complex of Tash Hauli Palace, the minaret of Caltha Minor that is completely covered with glazed tiles, famous Juma Mosque with its 213 carved pillars, a symbol of Khiva Islam-Khoja minaret, etc.
Kalta-minor Minaret
It is difficult to imagine ancient Khiva without this monument of oriental architecture. The Minaret of Kalta-Minor has become the real symbol of the city.
It amazes with its size and unique design. Foundation of the minaret is 15 meters, diameter at the foundation is 14,5 meters and the height is 29 meters. But this massive tower has only third part of the project height.
In 1855 the Khiva ruler Muhammad Amin Khan was killed and the construction of the magnificent minaret was stopped, though it was supposed to be of 70 meters (according to other records – of 110 meters). According to the architect project wide foundation was to increase durability and the supposed top was to be narrower to decrease the load. But the fate decreed otherwise – and the tower remained unfinished. And now it resembles huge glazed barrel and is called as Kalta-Minor that means “short minaret”.
There is a lot of interesting legends regarded to this minaret. During the construction of this grand minaret, people began to murmur close to the minaret. But Muhammad Amin-khan ordered to catch the strikers’ leader Matyakub and to bury him alive in the foundation of the tower. Another interesting legend says that Bukhara ruler learned about the construction of such grand minaret and offered the architect to build higher minaret. When Muhammad Amin Khan learned about this arrangement he decided to kill the corrupt architect. But the architect managed to escape, leaving the tower unfinished. Only this architect could complete the construction. But these are just legends and the erection of minaret was stopped exactly after death of the khan.
Even over a century later the minaret of Kalta Minor has been amazing with its size. Its unique decoration strikes an imagination: the minaret is completely covered with the glazed tile and majolica, which are still bright and vivid as in 1855.
Khoja Berdibai Madrasah
Khoja Berdibai madrasah was built not far from the Khiva eastern gates – Palvan-Darvoza by initiative of rich and esteemed residents in 1688. This madrasah is one of the oldest madrasah which survived in Khiva up to date. The majority of well-known Khiva monuments belong to later period - to the XVIII-XIX centuries.
The madrasah is a rectangular building with a courtyard. When it was functioning, in the corners of the courtyard there were ayvans where the madrasah teachers and students used to have a rest in the hottest hours. By tradition the entrance doors were decorated with wood carving.
The madrasah interior decor is rather ascetic. The painted wooden grids (panjara) only, on the windows add the madrasah some oriental charm There is a darskhona – a study room for the students in the remote corner of the madrasah. It represents a square domed room. Since the madrasah is rather small there are only 16 khudjrs (cells) were the madrasah students lived.
In 1834 the Khiva ruler Allakulikhan began construction of a large mosque and madrasah. In the course of construction work of the madrasah a part of the city wall was destroyed and the outside façade of the new madrasah was caught in the yard of Khoda Berdibai madrasah. This happened due to the fact that the foundations of the both buildings were at different levels. As a result the courtyard of the Khoja Berdibai madrasah was divided into two parts and resembled a saddlebag - khurjum. After that the people called Khoja Berdibai madrasah as Khurjum madrasah.
Kunya-Ark Citadel
According to historical evidence, in 1686, Arang-khan began the construction of the citadel Kunya-ark at the western gates of Ichan-kala. The ark presented a complex multi-yard composition, containing a house for khan, the members of his family, and dignitaries. From the large numbers of constructions of the ark only several buildings of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century were preserved. They were the official reception hall (kurinishkhana), a mosque, the mint, and a harem. Previously, there were an arsenal, a powder-mill, and an official building, warehouses, a kitchen, guardhouses, a stable, and a parade area. Fortified gates led to the citadel. A high-cogged wall separated the ark from the neighborhood dwellings of Ichan-kala.
There was an outer yard, serving as a waiting room for the khan's audiences. There were cannons in a second yard. The officials of khan gathered in the third yard, and only then the main door of the kurinishkhana was visible. A felt yurta (nomad tent) was put up for the khan's use. A narrow corridor led to the harem and a staircase led to the Akshikh-bobo mount from here. The two-layered aivan, which was practically merged into the city wall, opened in the direction of the city. This was a good place for an observation post. From here one could see the panorama of the whole city and the neighborhoods. They say that Khiva's rulers liked to rest here on warm nights.
The Akshikh-bobo aivan has also been used for military observation.
The fortress constructions were closely compacted together; their charm can be seen in the yards with their splendid aivans. The high two-column aivan of the kurinishkhana, where receptions were held, completely is faced with majolica. In the eighteenth century during the devastating invasion of the Iranian troops many constructions of the citadel were destroyed, and the kurinishkhana was damaged. At the beginning of the nineteenth century Iltuzar-khan renewed it. There was a throne-hall, khan's apartments, treasury, and manuscript depository. The cold blue-white and sky-blue patterns of the majolica plate contrast with the red murals of the ceiling. The Khiva masters arranged ornaments freely and picturesquely. The interior of the throne-hall is decorated with carved plaster. The throne was made of turned wood, decorated with stamped silver. The local master Mukhammad made it in 1816.
The building of the mint and an asymmetric mosque with an aivan were built at the same time and comprise a single complex. The famous Khiva masters Abdulla Jin and Ibadulla did the majolica facing of the mosque. The ceiling of the aivan is painted with elegant golden patterns on the blue background.
There is a harem, built under Mukhammad Rahim-khan II in the second half of the nineteenth century in the northern part of the citadel. The pillars of the aivans are covered with traditional carved ornaments. Instead of complete majolica facing one can see separate colored ceramic insertions. The walls are decorated with simple plastering and colored brightly.
The Khiva aivans were unique with their elegant decoration. Through skilful carving, stone carving, and decorative ceramics the artists and architects of Khiva expressed their notion of beauty.
Among the preserved architectural monuments is a bathhouse, built in 1657 and devoted to Anush-khan. This is a semi-underground, multi-chambered construction. The system of cupolas covering the building is seen from outside. From the lobby via a cloakroom one can get into the main bathing hall, connected with the arched passages, and into the rest houses, which are around the hot-water pool. There is a reservoir with cold water in the central hall. A system of under floor canals through which hot air passes warms the bathhouse. The efficient technology of the bathhouse, combined with imaginative planning and with simple constructions epitomizes the architecture of the municipal constructions of Khiva.
In the eighteenth century the summer palace of the Khiva khans, Chadra-hovli was built in the suburbs of Khiva. The building consists of four stones. The first of them represents an exclusive two-chamber winter building where there was a stable and a warehouse. The adobe staircase leads up to a second floor, consisting of a dwelling and aivans facing the west and south. The aivans create a view of the environs from the three sides. As one ascends, the weight of the floor and the thickness of the wall are reduced dynamically. Three windows are placed vertically on the northern facade.
The building was erected with adobe blocks, fluting is seen on the facade and the interior is trimmed by plaster. The only element of the decor on the aivans is the carved wooden of the pillars. The Chadra-Khovli is characterized by originality and simplicity.
Mausoleum of Makhmud Pakhlavan
If blue domes as the symbol of the eastern architecture can be often found in Samarkand and Bukhara, there is only one blue dome in Khiva. It decorates the tomb of Makhmud Pahlavan, a famous poet and warrior of the XIV century. There are a lot of legends about his strength and courage. One of the legends tells that Pahlavan conquered the Indian ruler, and the latter agreed to reward him with whatever the hero would wish. Then Pahlavan Makhmud said: "Release my countrymen from prison." And when the ruler asked how many people he should release, Pakhlavan told all those who would fit into a cow skin. He cut the skin into thin strips, tied them into one large belt and wrapped all the prisoners with the belt. So Makhmud rescued many people from slavery. After his death Muslim clergy canonized him.
The complex was built only in 1701, according to the inscription on the stone gates. The dome of the
mausoleum is covered with blue glazed tiles with glittering gilt top. Originally, the mausoleum was small and modest, but it quickly became a pilgrimage site with a lot of hujras, khanakas and mosques. The walls of the mausoleum are decorated with magnificent majolica. In the mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud people pray and drink the holy water.
Muhammad Amin-khan Madrasah
The Madrasah of Mukhammad Amin-khan is one of the main sights, located in the historical district Itchan-Kala. It is the largest madrasah not only in Khiva but in the Central Asia. The two-storied building occupies the area of 72 to 60 meters and has 125 khudjras (cells), intended for 260 students. The unique of this madrasah is that each khudjra consisted of two rooms and khudjras on second floor consisted of room and loggia, looking out the facade.
The Madrasah was built in 1851-1854 by the order of Khiva ruler Muhammad Amin-khan and was named after him. The building of the Madrasah of Mukhammad Amin-khan has five domes and flank towers. The facade is decorated with rich ornament of glazed brick, wooden doors abound in ornamental carving, majolica face impresses with herbal patterns. Above the entrance there is the inscription in Arabic: “This wonderful building will stay here forever to descendants’ joy”.
The Madrassah of Muhammad Amin-khan is located opposite another Khiva sight – Kunya-Ark, next to Ata-Darvoza gate. Just in front of the building there is one of the main symbols of the city – the minaret Kalta-Minor, which was also constructed under the guidance of Muhammad Amin-khan. But the ruler was killed and the construction of the minaret which was to become the highest minaret in the world was not finished. Its height is only 29 meters instead of 70 meters.
Formerly the Madrasah of Mukhammad Amin-khan was one of the richest educational institutions and held numerous wakf lands. In addition, The Chancery of the Supreme Muslim Courtyard was located in this building. Today the building of the Madrasah of Mukhammad Amin-khan includes a tour agency, hotel, currency exchange office and cafe.This magnificent building preserved its historical look and even after a century it amazes residents and visitors of Khiva with its greatness.
Muhammad Rahim-khan Madrasah
Muhammad Rahim-khan was one of the most educated representatives of Kungrat dynasty ever to rule in Khiva since 1770. During his rule, a number of reforms were carried out in improvement of cities, in policy, economy, but, that was the most important, in education. His reforms in education resulted in opening of the first ‘new type’ of schools in Khiva where not only religious but also secular subjects were taught. The construction of one of the largest madrasahs in the Central Asia in his own honour became the apotheoses of his rule. Not only the religion and the Koran but also secular subjects such as mathematics, astronomy, geography were taught at the Muhammad Rahim-khan Madrasah. Along with studying various sciences and theology, madrasah students composed poems, held debates.
The educational process at the Muhammad Rahim-khan Madrasah differed from traditional education at other Islamic universities. To a large extend, it was facilitated by Muhammad Rahim-khan himself. He was well-educated and enlightened monarch, he used to write poems under the pseudonym Feruz. Often, he personally participated in discussions with the madrasah students.
The construction of the Muhammad Rahim-khan Madrasah completed in 1876 and it became one of the largest in the territory of the Central Asia. The madrasah appeared as two-storeyed building with a high entrance portal. The Muhammad Rahim-khan Madrasah’s yard had four aiwans with four small turrets at the corners. There were 76 hudjrs inside (internal living rooms).The madrasah also had darskhona – a teaching bulk, summer and winter mosques and an extensive library. Muhammad Rahim-khan madrasah encapsulated the spirit of enlightenment. It is a bright sample of culture of architecture of that epoch and takes a special niche in the history of Khoresm.
Sayid Allauddin Mausoleum
In the historical part of Khiva, Itchan-kala, there is one of the ancient buildings of the city – Mausoleum of Sayid-Allauddin, burial vault of famous Eastern saint and Sufi sheikh. For the centuries-old history of existence it was restored many times and the exact date of the construction is unknown, but according to historians the construction was finished in the second half of XIV century.
Sayid Allauddin, being the relative of the prophet Muhammad, preached Islam in Khiva in the end of XIII century. He died in 1303 and fifty years later the mausoleum was erected on the grave of the saint. Since that time this site became one of the pilgrimage centers for believers from all over the world. Amir Kulyal is considered the architect of the mausoleum.
Architecture of the mausoleum is not distinguished with rich ornamentation: brick walls and domes, without any face. The building is made in ascetic style without picturesque elements. Small square building (ziyarat-khona) was attached to the mausoleum in the XIX century. It caused the mausoleum entrance is located from the
north. Probably initial building had some ornamentation (some elements were found in the course of excavations), but due to great number of reconstructions they were not preserved. Notwithstanding the plain look of the building, thousands of pilgrims from Uzbekistan and other countries visit it every year.
Shergazi-Khan Madrasah
This madrasah is located in the heart of Itchan Kala in front of the mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud. It was built by slaves that were captured in 1718 by Shergazi Khan, during his raid to Khorasan and Mashhad.
Shergazi Khan promised to liberate the slaves as soon as the construction of madrasah would be completed, but he did everything possible to delay the completion of the construction. In 1720 enraged prisoners killed Shergazi Khan in an unfinished madrasah. His mausoleum is attached to the western corner of the madrasah’s main facade. Madrasah Shergazi Khan is on the oldest and largest buildings in Khiva. The building of the madrasah is one-storeyed, except the two-story entrance, four-aivans courtyard, vestibule rooms and lecture hall. In this madrasah the famous Turkmen poet Makhtumkuli was teaching, and Jawaharlal Nehru studied there.
Tash-Khovli Palace
This madrasah is located in the heart of Itchan Kala in front of the mausoleum of Pahlavan Mahmud. It was built by slaves that were captured in 1718 by Shergazi Khan, during his raid to Khorasan and Mashhad.
Shergazi Khan promised to liberate the slaves as soon as the construction of madrasah would be completed, but he did everything possible to delay the completion of the construction. In 1720 enraged prisoners killed Shergazi Khan in an unfinished madrasah. His mausoleum is attached to the western corner of the madrasah’s main facade. Madrasah Shergazi Khan is on the oldest and largest buildings in Khiva. The building of the madrasah is one-storeyed, except the two-story entrance, four-aivans courtyard, vestibule rooms and lecture hall. In this madrasah the famous Turkmen poet Makhtumkuli was teaching, and Jawaharlal Nehru studied there.
