Sights
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Abdullazizkhan Madrasah
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Ark Fortress
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Bolo-Khauz Complex
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Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum
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Chor-Minor Madrasah
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Djami Mosque
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Ensemble of Khoja-Gaukushon
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Fayzabad Khanqah
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Kalyan Minaret
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Kalyan Mosque
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Khanqah of Khoja Zaynuddin
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Kosh-Madrasah
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Kukeldash Madrassah
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Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble
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Magoki-Attori Mosque
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Mausoleum of Imam Abu Khafs Kabir
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Medieval Baths of Bukhara
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Miri-Arab Madrasah
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Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah
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Poi-Kalyan Ensemble
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Registan Square (Bukhara)
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Samanids Mausoleum
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Trading domes of Bukhara
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Ulugbek Madrasah
Bukhara. Uzbekistan.
Abdullazizkhan Madrasah
Opposite Ulugbek Madrasah there is Abdullazizkhan Madrasah. Abdullazizkhan built it in 1651 – 1652 and it is the last large Madrasah in Bukhara. The building is typical by composition, with four-ayvans yard, but with unordinary divergent fan of hudj groups after side ayvans and cupola buildings on the central axis.
It is very interesting the improvement of living lodgings, which consisted of entrance hall and hudjra, and were equipped with free-places, attic storeys, wall niches for bed clothes, dishes, decorated in conformity with the taste of inhabitants, who rented these apartments during their study.Away from Poi-Kalyan ensemble we can see trade arcades, belonging to the end of 16 century Taki-Telpak Phurushon and Taki Sarraphon.
Head-dresses were sold in Taki-Telpak Phurushon : skull-caps embroidered with beads, brocade and silk, fur-fox hats, turbans. Currency transactions were accomplished under Taki
Sarraphon dome, shroffs mediates in international trade affairs.
The cupolas are inimitable in their architecture and constructions. The most expressive of them is Taki Sarraphon with cruciform passage through central hall and apartments behind its beveled corners: in one room there was mosque, in another – the entrance into old Saraphon baths, in other two ones – usurer stores. Constructive basis is four massive crossing archs, you can see inside and outside.
Ark Fortress
Ark-Citadel is a residence of Bukhara khans. According to the last excavations, it was determined the citadel was on this place from 4 century BC. For many years of building and destruction, 20 meters height artificial hill was formed; its upper layers were built over in the time of last bokharan emirs. The wooden part of Ark building was burnt down during the fire of 1920. The general planning is being reestablished by historical documents. Ark included the whole city, consisting of closely accreted houses; courts and yards with state institutions, emir, his wives, and relatives and officials lodgings. Inside the trapeziform outlines of citadel walls the planning was right-angled with traditional cruciform crossing of main streets.
Ark included: emir lodging, throe-room, police department, stables, stores of clothes, carpets, utensils, treasures, armoury, jail, jeweler’s and other workshops, mint place, mosques, mazars and other buildings. The first, you can see it is massive fortress gates of Ark - portal with two-storey towers by sides from arch aperture and latticed architecture gallery on top. Behind it there is a musical pavilion, built in 17 century, two-coloured audience chamber, surrounded by gallery. Here during a day there was performed a series of makoms – it is a musical work; through it people could know the time (it is tradition left from zoroastrizm time). From ayvan, tsarevitches was looking at solemnities and executions at Registan Square before Ark. To citadel inside leads from Ark gates the gloomy, arched and raising up passage-dalon. By its side there can be seen 12 niches, leading to damp dungeons, where prisoners were lauguishing. There were awful casemates and in dungeons under bridge of planks and Ark gates towers.
Opposite Ulugbek Madrasah there is Abdullazizkhan Madrasah. Abdullazizkhan built it in 1651 – 1652 and it is the last large Madrasah in Bukhara. The building is typical by composition, with four-ayvans yard, but with unordinary divergent fan of hudj groups after side ayvans and cupola buildings on the central axis.
It is very interesting the improvement of living lodgings, which consisted of entrance hall and hudjra, and were equipped with free-places, attic storeys, wall niches for bed clothes, dishes, decorated in conformity with the taste of inhabitants, who rented these apartments during their study.Away from Poi-Kalyan ensemble we can see trade arcades, belonging to the end of 16 century Taki-Telpak Phurushon and Taki Sarraphon.
Head-dresses were sold in Taki-Telpak Phurushon : skull-caps embroidered with beads, brocade and silk, fur-fox hats, turbans. Currency transactions were accomplished under Taki
Bolo-Khauz Complex
Bolo-Khauz Complex is the only preserved monument on the Registan Square. It is located on the opposite site of Ark - the Emir's fortress. The complex consists of the reservoir, Friday mosque and minaret.
The most ancient part of the complex is the pond (Khauz), which is called as Bolo-Khauz ("Children's reservoir"). It is one of several ponds in Bukhara, that reached our days. In past these reservoirs were the water source for the population and unfortunately the source of many deseases. Therefore most of them were drained.
Bolo-Khauz Mosque was built in 1712 by order of Emir's wife. The other legend says that Emir Shakhmurad (1785-1800) built it for public prayers, because he liked to be among common people. A wooden ceiling of ayvan (traditional verandah), which leans on refined columns, is abundantly decorated with fretwork and ornamented with floral and geometrical ornamental patterns. A short minaret was built in 1917 by Shirin Muradov, a famous master of Bukhara.
Chashma-Ayub
In Central Asia, there exist a great many places which were presumably visited by saints many centuries ago.
One of them is the Chashma-Ayub well, translated as Saint Job’s Source. A legend has it that the Bible prophet Job, having visited this land, decided to help the people who suffered from water shortage in the desert. He struck the ground with his stick, making a source of crystal clear water sprang at that place.
The people believe that the water from the source possesses healing power. A mausoleum is erected over the source. It is shaped in a form of an oblong prism. The building is crowned with domes, different in form. Over the main building with the source there is a special double dome with a conical “cap”.
Chor-Minor
Speaking of the Bukhara’s unusual monuments, first of all, we should tell about the Chor-Minor madrasah. It is located right behind Lyabi-Khauz, in the open space. “Chor–Minor” is translated as “four minarets”. This name is well justified: the corners of the square-rectangular madrasah building are really decorated with four small minarets crowned with blue domes, different in decors from each other.
Each of the four minarets is of a different shape. The towers’ décor elements are believed to reflect the religious-philosophical understanding of the world’s four religions. At least, it is easy to see that some elements look like a cross, a Christian fish, and the Buddhist prayer wheel.
In front of the madrasah building there is a patio, with a centrally occupied small basin – hauz, lined with stone blocks, and several hujrs adjacent to the madrasah sides.
The madrasah is a well-preserved building, erected on money of the rich Turkmen Caliph Niyazkul. The date of the madrasah construction, referred to the year 1807, needs to be specified, because according to the archival documents the Caliph Niyazkul madrasah existed as early as the end of the XVII century.
Djami Mosque
Straight before the entrance into Ark, you can see the ayvan of palace mosque – Djami, it was built in 18 century like type of large quarterly mosque: four-pillared winter garden, surrounded by three-side ayvan. Design of interieur is typical for 19 century – beginning of 20 century. Last repairment was made in 1910-1920 with the participation of famous Uzbek master Usto-Shirin Muradov, making out fretwork on ganch.
Ensemble of Khoja-Gaukushon
Khoja-Gaukushon is one of the largest ensembles of the city and includes mosque, minaret and madrasah. In past Gaukushon was the large trade square of Bukhara. It got its name due to the slaughter-house, which once existed on this site, because "Gaukushon" is translated as "killing of bulls".
In XVI century large madrasah and mosque with huge minaret were built on the square. That minaret yielded only to Kalyan Minaret by its size. Constructions on the Gaukushon square were erected with the money of Djuibar sheikh Khoja Saad, that was reflected on the name of the mosque and the ensemble in whole.
Fayzabad Khanqah
Fayzabad Khanqah was built in 1598-1599 by the famous Sufi Mavlono Poyand-Mukhammad Ahsi (Ahsiketi) Fayzobodi, who died two years later in 1601. The building had two functions. This mosque-khaqah was intended both for five-fold everyday prayers (namaz) and for friday prayers. It was also the place of Sufi rites and the temporary residence of dervishes.
Khanqah of Fayzabad is the wonderful creation of that time. Its hall as large, high and light as the palace. The refinement, elegance and nobility runs through the whole architecture of the khanqah. The central hall has two wings of through arched galleries with domes. Behind the mihrad (nishe, indicating the direction to Mekka) there is the three-storey building of khudjras (cells) for residence of dervishes. The dome of interior is decorated with the impressive fretwork of ganch in the style of "chaspak"
The Kalyan Minaret
From the beginnings of Islam, there have been three types of mosques: Djuma mosques, which are intended for the large crowds that come to Friday services, Namazga country mosques (musalla idgoh), which are used by the male population of both the city and the surrounding countryside to celebrate the two Muslim holidays Qurban and Ramazan, and Quzar mosques, which are designed to be used as daily mosques in residential neighbourhoods.
We know very little about the thirteenth century Djuma Mosque in Bukhara, for it has been rebuilt completely since the time of its original construction. In any case, it had a vast courtyard surrounded by galleries. However, the minaret which was built in 1127 A.D. and called the Kalyan (Great) Minaret, has survived. It still dominates the skyline of Bukhara, astonishing all who see it with its magnificent and flawless shape. The minaret was designated to summon Muslims to prayer five times a
day. Normally, each mosque had its own minaret, but the main minaret was situated near the Djuma Mosque. It was from the gallery, at the top of the minaret, that the muedzin summoned the believers to prayer at the top of his voice.
The Kalyan Minaret was built twice. The fact is it collapsed just before it was completed the first time, probably because of the builders did not take into account the soft ground underneath, due to the many cultural layers beneath the city. A new, more durable foundation was laid for the minaret and, by 1127, construction of this second minaret was completed. According to someone writing at the time, «there was nothing like this minaret, for it was built very beautifully». Indeed, the forty-eight m tall Kalyan Minaret is a flawless example of both civil engineering and superior architectural creation. The baked bricks it is made from form a monolithic circular tower that narrows from its thick base to its top.
The body of the minaret is topped by a rotunda with 16 arched fenestrations, from which the muedzins gave the call to prayer. In times of siege or war, warriors used the minaret as a watchtower. Earlier, the minaret apparently had another round section above the rotunda, but now only the cone-shaped top is left. The baked bricks, from which the minaret is made, are the main feature of its architectural design. The body of minaret is belted with narrow ornamental strings made of bricks. They are arranged in a chessboard order, either straight or diagonally. A frieze with inscriptions goes around the minaret upon a muqarnas (stalactite) cornice. The frieze is covered with blue glaze, which was used widely in the architectural decor of Bukhara at that time.
The Kalyan Mosque
The Kalyan Mosque is one of the outstanding monuments of Bukhara, dating back to the fifteenth century. According to data from archaeological excavations, the original Karakhanid Djuma Mosque was destroyed by fire and dismantled, apparently at the time of the Mongolian invasion. Some time later, it was rebuilt, but this reconstructed mosque did not remain long. A new mosque was built in the fifteenth century, at the time of the Sheybanids, according to written sources of the time.
Under Temur, the construction of monumental buildings was concentrated in Samarkand and Shahrisabz. However, under Ulughbek, the powerful clergy of Bukhara initiated the construction of a new Djuma Mosque on the site of the old one. Its dimensions are just slightly smaller than those of the Bibi-Khanum, Temur's congregational mosque in Samarkand. However, Bukhara's Djuma Mosque is not decorated as elaborately as the Bibi-Khanum.
The layout of the Djuma Mosque (named the Kalyan Mosque) is traditional: a rectangular courtyard with a tall and large maksura room on the west side. Each of the courtyard axes has a large ayvan and the perimeter of the courtyard is built up with pillar-domed galleries (there are 208 pillars and 288 domes). The maksura is square and has deeply recessed niches on the transverse axis and a mihhrab on the main axis. Slabbing is typical for the early fifteenth century,-an octahedron of arched pendentives supports a vaulted inner dome and is capped by a spherical blue outer dome upon a drum. This structure still dominates the skyline of Bukhara.
Construction of the mosque was completed in 1514 under the direction of Ubaidulla-khan. new elements were a main facade with peshtok in the centre of it, gul-dasta (towers) and arches on the walls. The decor of the mosque is constrained, composed primarily of glazed tiles and bricks that form knots, and is concentrated mainly on the main facade and the mihrab. Interestingly, however, beyond this facade archaeological research has revealed an earlier decor, composed of six sided tiles and a mosaic border. The earlier decor is marked with the name of the master who made it, Bayazid Purani, and dates back to the fifteenth century.
Khanqah of Khoja Zaynuddin
This monument of antiquity is concealed from view in the residential settlement of Bukhara. But the real connoisseur of antiquity and ancient architecture must visit this unique complex od buildings of XVI century.
This mosque-khanqah has the central hall with dome, which was used by Sufi in their religious rites. The hall is vast, high and has the rich ornamentation.
The khanqah of Khoja Zaynuddin served as a shelter for errant dervishes and fulfilled a function of residential quater mosque. It was the place of meeting of he representatives of Sufism and the burial place of esteemed sheikh Khodja Zaynuddin.
Kosh-Madrasah
Kosh means «double». Ensemble includes 2 buildings: Modari-khan Madrasah and Abdullah-khan Madrasah. The buildings stand on narrow street sides, faced partal to each other. Modari-khan Madrasah was built in 974 of hydjr or 1566 - 1567. The date is pointed out with poems on majolica paintings over entrance. It is the modest model of Madrasah with gorgeous-faced main facade. He built abdull-khan Madrasah in 1558 – 1590.
It is one of outstanding Central Asiatic architectual work. Here architector bravely deviated from canon rules in planning, moving capacities assimetrically beyond the rectangular building outlines, including new forms in usual composition. So there was appeared inside yard spacious hall with cupola on twelve-sided light drum, it is known as «Abdullah-khan sky-light». The hall combines 20 hydjrs, situated in 2 tiers.
Kukeldash Madrassah
Kukeldash Madrassah of XVI century is the earliest building of the Lyabi Khauz Ensemble. It was buiult during the reign of the Sheybanids dynasty in Bukhara.
This madrassah is the largest madrassah of the city (80 x 60 meters). The madrassah has over 130 hujras, where lived and studied more than 320 students. It became the symbol of powerful state under leading of Abdulla-khan.
It is a two-storied building with a large mosaic portal at the entrance, decorated with deep arched nishes, flanked on the corners by elegant columns of translucent green onyx. The interior decoration is the perfect example of "white interior".
Lyabi-Khauz Enseble
Architectual ensemble Lyabi-Khauz is formed with three large monumental buildings: Kukeldash Madrasah in the north, khanaka and Nodir Divan-begi in the west and in the east. From the south the square was closed with Trade Street. The center of old Bukhara large ensemble became a reservoir.
The name «Lyabi-Khauz» means «at reservoir». According to the old legend, for a long time knan gardener Nadir Divan-begi could not buy a lot for planned building, where a house of alone woman was. Then all-powerful vizier ordered to built a channel under women's house, and the water began to washaway walls, unhappy women had to sell this lot. The khan hauz secretly was called «khauz of violence», what in arabian inscription gives numerical meaning of building date - 1620.
The khauz rectangular (36 – 46 meters height), stretched from the east to the west, is buried in shadow of venerable chinaras. Its shores are formed with stair launch to the water, made from massive blocks of yellow limestone. In old times there was «tea bazar», there sold sweets, dainties, bread and made food.
Kukeldash Madrasah (1568 - 1569) is the largest in Bukhara (80x 60 meters). It is built on traditional diagram of eastern institution – boarding school. However for the first time in madrasah built in rabid, light, ventilated hujrs leaded by loggias on the free yard to the streets of city. They open on the second floor on side-facades. Living apatment is equipped with modern amenities, as Ulugbek Madrasah in Samarkand, butr there is three-part apartmenton the first floor, consisted of ayvan, housing and household apartments. In darskhana 4 crossing archs, stretched from corner to corner diagonally with netted décor, carry the light.
On the west side of Laybi-khauz is one more architectural monument. This is Nadir Divan-begi Khanaka (1619 - 1620). It is great multicells building with central cupola hall, with undeep niches on sides. In the building corners are living hydjras.
On the eastern side of khauz you can see a facade of curious architectual building – Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah. At first this building was built as caravan-saray in Madrasah, joined to main facade loggias, portal and corner towers. At this time second floor was built. On longitudinal axis, across from entrance peshtak is, traditional in caravan-saray, passage to the back yard, destined for pack cattle.
Magoki-Attori Mosque
The Magoki-Attori Mosque in the city's centre is an example of an urban mosque in a residential quarter. The mosque was built on the site of the pre-lslamic Moh temple mentioned above. Excavations have revealed the fact that even under the Samanids there was a six-pier mosque, which apparently was also domed. However, it was rebuilt substantially in the twelfth century; the floor level was upgraded and the main facade received a new design that survives with little damage only. By the sixteenth century, the thickness of cultural layers had increased so much that mosque seemed to sink deep into the soil and its facade was unearthed only as a result of excavations carried out in the 1930s.
The facade of the mosque is asymmetrical. To the right it has a portal with a recessed vault, fringed with rectangular strips; the architectural decor is
composed of covered bricks which form geometric shapes and tiles of carved terra-cotta bearing vegetation patterns. Carved terracotta is also used in decorating the pylons and the vaults of the arches, combined with vegetation patterns with inscriptions covered with blue glaze. All in all, the Magoki-Attori Mosque is an excellent example of Central Asian architecture during the Kara-khanid epoch.
Mausoleum of Imam Abu Khafs Kabir
Akhmad ibn Khafs al-Kabir al-Bukhari was born in the Bukhara village of Fagsodara in 767. He left for Bukhara for his trip to Baghdad already in his young age in order to study theology and Shariah law from the Imam Mukhammad ash-Shaybani. Ash-Shaybani was a student of a legendary Imam Azam Abu Khanifa, the Hanafi school (one of the four Sunni Law Schools) founder.
With the time Abu Khafs Kabir became one of the main theologians of the Islamic East. The Holy Imam is the author of a series of books on Islamic law including “Al-Akhvo val ihtilof” (“Flippant agreements and disagreements”), “Ar-Raddu alal-lafziya” (“Repulse to those looking above”) and many others. Returning to Bukhara, he shared his knowledge. It is considered that it is thanks to him that Bukhara started to flourish in spiritual and secular sciences and imams and scholars became respectable people.
Imam Abu Khafs Kabir became the founder of the Hanafi school in Mawarannahr (Transoxiana) and launched the first medrese of the Hanafi stream in Bukhara. There is a legend that when a holy sheikh was walking to a medrese through Bukhara market, then the entire noisy bazaar would respectably keep the voices down. The school where he was teaching, where later his son and grandson were teaching too (according to the legend, his wife was also teaching the female students) was the place where students from around the world were striving to be accepted.
Among famous followers of Imam Abu Khafs Kabir - Imam al-Bukhari is one of the most respectable figures in the Islamic scientific world, the author of the monumental collection of reliable hadith “al-Jami as-Sahih”.
Bukharians knew that the holy imam Abu Khafs Kabir would always respond to one’s requests for help regardless who it was coming from: from emir or a common citizen. Thanks to this, imam was called Eshoni Hojat-baror (“Ishan, resolving problems”). Bukhara dwellers would come to him for advices and directions through the gates in the north-west part of the Bukhara wall that later were called “Gates Hakk rakh” (road to truth). Even the whole district was called the same.
Akhmad ibn Khafs al-Kabir al-Bukhari passed away in 832. Bukhara city tales state that where there is a memorial complex of Abu Khafs Kabir Bukhari on the hill, there is also a burial place of Afrasiyab, the legendary king of Turan. The tomb of imam in the district of “Hakk rakh” turned into a place of pilgrimage of believers who are assured that prayers read in this holy place possess a special force. Interesting to note that the tomb of imam Abu Khafs Kabir made in the shape of a cube adorned with semi-sphere dome, architecturally reminds of the mausoleum of Samanids. And it was the son of Abu Khafs Kabir named Abu Abdallaha ibn Abu Khafs al-Bukhari who assisted the ruler of Bukhara Ismail Samani to come to power. Like his father he was a scientist, respected and influential figure in the holy city of Bukhara.
In the times of Communism, the burial place had been destroyed as many other monuments in the region. Memorial complex including the mausoleum of holy imam Khafs Kabir was restored in the years of independence and continues to remain the place of pilgrimage. Mausoleum of Khafs Kabir is frequently visited by groups’ of travellers from around the world who are on the Sufi tours.
Medieval Baths of Bukhara
Bath-hammam is one of the most widespread samples of civil architecture in Central Asia. This form of architecture has passed long enough way of development in Central Asia. Since ancient times, swimming pools and bath houses had been an integral part of town-planning.
It is possible to track the general principle of town-planning in history of bath houses construction. Often, pools were built as a part of palace complexes and the public buildings located in city centre. If separated, very often they were established in a municipal-economic zone of a city.
According to Narshahi, there were a number of baths in Bukhara in 10th century, and Hammom Khon (“Khan’s Bath”) was the most known of them. By the middle of the 19th century, the number of bath increased up to 16 against 11 baths in Tashkent, and Samarkand had only 8 baths by the beginning of the 20th century.
The baths could be divided into two types depending on their location: city (bazar) and block (guzar). Bazar baths were in direct proximity with trade rows. There was a number of such baths in Bukhara: Hammom Gavkusho, Hammom Hodja Porso, Hammom Sarrofon and Hammom Bozori Kord, one of the oldest bath houses of Bukhara built in 17th century. This bath, like other eastern baths consists of a lobby, a premise for an undressing and soap rooms. Many Central Asian baths had a form of one-storied dome building.
For better conveniences, many baths, were located at a crossroads of streets, closely adjoining other public buildings. Such baths existed in Bukhara and Samarkand and were called “Hammom Kundjak”, that is a “corner bath”. One of such baths still functions in Bukhara near Kalyan Minaret.
The Central Asian baths were mainly built with one room and there was a strict schedule of for men and women in different days of week.
In the East, the baths were built not only in the neighborhood with bazaars and residential areas but also in palaces, at mosques and madrasahs. The example of it is a remained bath of the Anush-khan in Khiva, constructed at the Ak-mosque.
Many of these baths have remained and successfully function today. In particular, there are two functioning baths in Bukhara – Bozori Kord and Hammam Kundjak. Here everyone can plunge into atmosphere of the medieval East.
Miri-Arab Madrasah
There are two big blue domes of the Miri-Arab madrasah towering above the surrounding buildings in the center of Bukhara. Along with the Kalyan mosque and minaret, this religious educational establishment forms the whole ensemble Poi-Kalyan that is the spiritual center of the city.
Construction of the Miri-Arab madrasah dates back to the 16th century and is related to the sheikh Abdallah Yamani (from Yemen), the spiritual pir (guide) of sheybanids. The exact date of the beginning of the construction is still unknown. According to one version, scientists believe that the building was erected in the period of 1530-1535/1536. The other version states, that the madrasah was built to celebrate the victory of the sheybanid army over the troops of the Sefevid shah Ismail I in the battle of Gijduvan in 1512. It is also supposed that the final construction works were carried out on the funds of Ubaydulla-khan; the money received from the sale of 3000 captive Iranians to slavery.
This madrasah is considered one of the most interesting monuments of Bukhara, and is still an acting institution,
where future imams and religious mentors receive their education.
Traditional national architecture is peculiar to this building – a square yard, surrounded with two floors of cells, two big domed halls in the left and right corners. There are two-store loggias adjoining the main façade in the center highlighted with a portal. The inner yard is adorned with composed carved mosaic. In the center of the madrassah, there is a shrine of Ubaydulla – emir of Bukhara, who had ruled the city in the period of 1533-1540. In the head of the building, you will see a burial place of the spiritual guide of the khan – Miri Arab (sheikh Abdallah Yamani), in whose honor the building got its name. The senior teacher of Ubaydulla – MukhammadKasimwas also buried there.
The décor of the Miri-Arab madrassah has dominance of different stone mosaics of exquisite work with geometric, vegetative and calligraphic writings and patterns. The portal, tympanums of loggias of the main façade, tympanums of hujra arches in inner facades and dome drums are adorned with artistic works. External domes are covered with calottes of blue tiles. In the inner decoration of the building, it is important to pay attention to the colorfully arranged mausoleum. Its panels and grates are decorated with carved mosaic from colorful stones and walls and shade are adorned with ganch (ganch – material similar to gypsum building plaster).
Miri-Arab madrasah was the only spiritual educational establishment in the USSR that had begun to function after the WWII. All leading imams of those times had graduated from this religious center.
Décor and architecture of the building are done in exquisite oriental taste. The monuments had gone through many destructions, but restorers managed to reconstruct the large part of the building, returning its initial look. As in the ancient times, grand façade makes any visitor admire its beautiful layout.
Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah
Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah is a part of the architectural complex located round well-known Lyabi-Hauz in Bukhara. The madrasah building, as well as khanaka nearby, were named after vizier Nadir by whose order they were constructed. Vizier Nadir served at a court yard of one the strongest and powerful representatives of Ashtarkhanid dynasty Imamkuli-khan, who ruled in Bukhara in 1611-1642. The board of Imamkuli-khan was one of the most stable and relatively peaceful for the whole history of Ashtarkhanids in Bukhara. It was time when governors paid attention not only to constant wars, but also to town-planning.
Initially, Nadir Divan-begi ordered to build khanaka (a place for Sufis to reflect and rest), later caravansari was added. However, at the opening ceremony, Imamkuli-khan said that caravansari was built in the glory of the Allah, therefore the vizier had to reconstruct it into the madrasah. The Nadir Divan-begi madrasah is decorated in the style typical for all Muslim monuments of Central Asia. At the same time, the images of birds, animals and a human being - sun were also used in decoration, and it was uncharacteristic for Islamic monuments. The Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah was built on the model of Sherdor in Samarkand but famous lions at the portal were replaced with mythical birds of happiness.
Having transformed the caravansari into madrasah, the vizier ordered to attach a loggia, a portal and angular towers to its main façade, and to add the second floor for living rooms – hudjrs. As for khanaka, it had a form of a multichamber building with the central dome hall. Hudjrs were not on the second but on the first floor, in lateral walls and building corners. The main entrance had extended form, untypical for Central Asia. Nadir Divan-begi ordered to construct pool near to khanaka and madrasah. Stone steps lead to it.. Subsequently this artificial reservoir was named Lyabi Hauz and became one of the most known sights of Bukhara.
Poi-Kalyan Ensemble
It is the main ensemble in Bukhara center, situated on the way to trade crossing of "four bazars" and Poi-Kalyan means “the pedestal of the Great” (it means “the pedestal of Kalyan minaret”). Ensemble consists of 4 monuments: Kalyan mosque and Miri-Arab Madrasah – faced to each other with main fronts; between them is Kalyan minaret; to the south of Miri-Arab there is small Amir-Allimkhan Madrasah.
Kalyan Minaret – it is a great vertical pillar, rising above the city. To proclaim the appeal to the pray – azal, it was enough to rise mosque roof, as it was in first centuries after Islam establishment. The word “minaret” descends from “minor” – it is a place, where something is on fire, the fire was set in leading light like this, between them in ancient world there were vast many-storey towers, like Phaross light-house of 143 meters height, dating to 283 BC.
Minarets played an exceptional role in architectual ensembles creating the city peculiarity.
In the beginning of 12 century – Arslan-khan ordered to rebuilt the minaret of old mosque. When the construction works had been finished, minaret fell and 2/3 of it was damaged. For the second time Arslan-khan ordered to built minaret. By inscription in turquoise majolica, under light cornice of Kalyan minaret, it was determined that it was finished in 1127. You can read “the name of Arslan-khan” on the half weight of stem. And it was found the name of master – Bano, whose burial place, local inhabitants pointed out between the next blockhouses. Kalyan minaret represents characteristic Maveranahr style of roundtrunk brick tower, decorated by the arch light. Its lower diameter – 9 meters, up diameter – 6 meters, total height is 45,6 meters. There is a brink-winding staircase inside trunk. Sixteen-arch light rotunda hangs over minaret trunk leaning on running out laying rows, decorated as stalactite cornice.
Kalyan Madrasah is dated to architecture masterpiece; it is a monument of 5 century, raised from the ruins during the years of Soviet power. In the beginning of 16 century, the mosque was partly reconstructed. The shapes of amazing arches and portal decor have already carried the features of new style, developed in Bukharan oasis in 16-17 centuries. The inscription under arch portal dates time of reconstruction. This is a poem from Koran, at the end of which we can see the date 1514-1515. In 1541 at the entrance of main portal was fixed a marble board with cut text of Abdullaziz I, this order runs that Bukharan inhabitants were free of some taxes payment.
Registan square Bukhara
To the west from Ark, still before Arab period was built Registan Square, in the ancient days it was public part. There were administrative buildings of divans (ministries) and palaces till 13 century, and then markets packed it. From 16-century trade shops Rasta and Taki-Tirgaron were at the entrance to Registan, where armourers sold their production. There were passages Taki-Org-Furushon and Tim in the center of square where headdresses and cotton fabrics were sold. Trade of meat, cereals, fancy goods, paper and inks, cradles, cattle, watermelons and melons, wooden utensils and other things was going at the square.
Opposite to Ark among crowded bazars capital punishments were accomplished. At the end of Ark were weapon shops, reception-room of main commander and also large Poyand Madrassah, quartal Madrassah of butcher corporation Bozori Gusfaid and Madrassah Dorul-shifo, where future doctors studied, hospital and polyclinic departments.
The only Registan monument, reached our times, is Bolo-khauz of 18 century. Picturesque Bolo-khauz Madrassah with luxury many pillars ayvan, faced to Registan, together with minaret reflects in khauz water.
Samanids Mausoleum
Of all the medieval buildings in Bukhara, the Samanids Mausoleum is of special interest. This world-famous architectural masterpiece was built at the close of the ninth century. The mausoleum was erected as a family crypt immediately after the death of Ismail Samani's father. Later, Ismail himself and his grandson Hasr were also buried in it. It is interesting to note that erecting crypts was against Islamic law at that time, for Islam forbade erecting any post-mortem monuments upon the tombs of Muslim believers. However, the prohibition was broken in the middle of the ninth century by one of the caliphs himself, for whom a special as-Suli-biya Mausoleum was built. Ismail merely followed his example.
The Samanids Mausoleum reveals the genius of a plain design. This is seen in its composition and the balanced design of its facades and interiors. It is composed of a semi-spherical dome resting on a cube. All of the facades are identical and marked with three-quarter domed columns on the corners. There is an upper armature and a central entrance with a visible horizontal dividing line.
The core is characterized by regular kiln-dried bricks, forming horizontal, vertical, and diagonal patterns on the walls. There are also separate details in the shape of disks or rosettes. Analysis shows that all elements in the Mausoleum are based on squares and diagonals: the elements form geometrically digressive lines. The same unification is seen in the architectural forms and kiln-dried brickwork in the interiors. The architectural design of the Samoniy mausoleum is entirely unique. It owes much to pre-lslamic Soghdian architecture, which used four-arch domed compositions and diminished forms on the top of buildings, including disks and rosettes on decoration columns (as can also be seen in the section between the dome and the drum of the interior). Although this building is connected with pre-Islamic architecture, it also anticipates the emergence of a new architectural style with comparatively small dimensions; the Samanids Mausoleum is full of magnificence and feeling of moving from this world to the world that lasts forever.
Trading domes of Bukhara
Bukhara is well-known to the world not only with its mosques, Ark Fortress and the majestic Kalyan minaret but also with its trading domes stretching in procession from Lyabi-Khauz to the Miri-Arab madrasah. Long ago, in the XVI century under the Shaybanides dynasty, Bukhara became the capital giving rise to unprecedented growth of the city, and since it was located on the Great Silk Road, the markets and trading stores even more congested cross-roads of public roads. Several centuries passed since that and four trading domes have only survived up to date.
Toki-Sarrofon Trading Dome
Fast beside the Lyabi-Khauz there stands a dome with a cross-road running under it. Small shops are scattered around it. Once there located one of the largest currency exchanges of Central Asia: merchants from India, China and other countries change their money from money-changers, named the sarrafs. The name of the trading dome originated from them. But several centuries later one can only buy carpets, kerchiefs and other souvenirs here.